Fashion brands frequently tap celebrities, specifically musicians, to partner on projects small (a limited-editon shoe design) and large (a full fledged ready-to-wear collection). It helps the brand find a new audience, keep up with pop culture, and even re-invent itself. For example, this New York Fashion Week, I've seen partnerships between Ciara and Keds, plus A$AP Rocky and Guess. Most famously, Kanye West and adidas held a fashion show-slash-album release at Madison Square Garden on Thursday. And on Friday, the pop star Rihanna unveiled a ready-to-wear collection with the sneaker brand Puma, called Fenty x Puma.
The latter two examples were contrasts in execution and success. Both aimed to make a splash with an over-the-top production to get attention in the press and in the fashion industry. But in Kanye West's case, the revealing of the third season of his "Yeezy" fashion line (a collaboration with Adidas), the ticketed event at Madison Square Garden held too many distractions to be effective to market the clothing. More attention was paid to his album, “The Life of Pablo,” which he simultaneously released, and the presence at MSG of the Kardashian/Jenner family. The clothes were tattered, form-squeezing to the point of unflattering, and hard to categorize. When would you wear them?
The next day, Rihanna debuted her the Fenty x Puma collection in a former bank located in the heart of Wall Street. Rihanna has been working with athletic wear brand since December 2014. The collection was inspired by Japanese street culture, but had gothic overtones, muted colors and exaggerated silhouettes.
The presentation was focused on the clothes, although Rihanna was present, and as a result, the outfits shone. As a stylist I couldn't help but think of how much better of a fashion event it was, and here's why.
As a designer you want to create something unique and different, and at the same time make it wearable for the public. Like Kanye, Rihanna presented an urban street wear collection, but instead of using saturated colors like orange and red (which Kanye did in his Yeezy Season 3 collection) Rihanna used muted and subtle colors like black, white and gray—which make the clothing a bit more wearable despite the design. Sure, the styling and makeup was way over the top, but most of the clothing (sports bras, track pants, hoodies, varsity jackets) were items that Puma buyers and Rihanna fans would actually wear.
Select An Intimate Venue
If you’re going to opt out of showing your collection at Clarkson Square, the official venue of New York Fashion Week: The Shows, then go with a venue that is similar, and doesn't drown out the clothing.
It’s About The Clothing, Not The Music
Yeezy Season 3 show was mainly about the music, and less about the clothing, and it showed. The album was being played louder than usual, not performed by Kanye and what a 5-10 minute fashion presentation should have been was really a long-lasting two-hour show of Kanye and his friends frolicking by the DJ booth, while about 40 models and a bunch of extras were standing in the center of the room.
Implement Social Media
During the Yeezy extravaganza, there was no wireless or wifi access in MSG and a planned Tidal livestream of the event failed. What else would you expect when 20 thousand people are trying to Instagram and Snapchat at once? In an effort to get more out into the world of social media, the Adidas planners got in their own way. On the other hand, Fenty Puma had under 400 people attending the show, which didn't clog the internet. Also, the show had its own Snapchat filter, two of them!
Less Is More
Surprisingly not one of Rihanna's chart topping hits was played during Fenty Puma by Rihanna, not even a tease of "We Found Love," "Diamonds" or her latest single "Work," featuring Drake. It drilled in the point that the musician was putting her energy behind the clothes this time. And there were no distractions like an army of reality stars dressed like furry angels to pull focus. (We won't name any names.)
Moti Ankari is the associate market editor for Bloomberg.