The past several months have consisted of announcement after announcement of designers opting out of participating in New York Fashion Week. Some, such as Thom Browne, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Altuzarra, have set their sights on the more esteemed Paris Fashion Week, while others, including Narciso Rodriguez, are opting for off-calendar presentations. Unable to keep track of who is showing where and who is not showing at all? Here is an easy alphabetical list outlining the changes …
ALTUZARRA: Joseph Altuzarra announced in July Altuzarra that it will move its shows to Paris this coming fall. The brand's Parisian debut will come by way of its Spring/Summer 2018 collection. Of the decision to decamp, Joseph Altuzarra said, "I was born and raised in Paris and the city holds a very deep personal significance for me. This has been a dream of mine since the very beginning and now the time feels right. I am honoured to be invited by La Fédération de la haute couture et de la Mode to show in my hometown of Paris."
JENNY PACKHAM: Designer Jenny Packham says she will no longer show her collections at New York Fashion Week, according to Marie Claire. In a statement on July 31, Packham she said she is "questioning the value of the traditional catwalk show" and that she will, instead, launch her Spring/Summer 2018 collection digitally to "provide stronger assets to use across multi-media platforms." Packham further noted, "Our intention is to work more closely with press and buyers to support our growth strategy."
KANYE WEST: Kanye West has cancelled his Yeezy Season 6 show, which was slated to take place during New York Fashion Week. The rapper canceled the show without providing any context as to why. However, at least one source has been quoted as saying, "There will be a presentation or showroom for the Season 6 collection, just not during NYFW.”
LACOSTE: Lacoste creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista told WWD in July that the brand is vacating New York Fashion Week and showing in Paris this September to celebrate the French brand’s 85th anniversary. As for whether it will return the following season, it seems unlikely. Baptista calls the change “a bit of a change,” and said he will “miss coming to New York.”
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ: As reported by WWD just this week, Narciso Rodriguez has decided to forego a formal show and instead present his collection in one-on-one showroom appointments on the first official day of the calendar, September 6th. WWD notes that Rodriguez has “long been considering a schedule shift, while examining the pros and cons of a formal show.”
PROENZA SCHOULER: Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez announced in January that they would move their shows to Paris for the foreseeable future. According to WWD, New York-based Proenza Schouler’s relocation to Paris is in line with its strategy to have a “more pronounced international presence.”
RODARTE: Also in January, Rodarte announced that it would make the trek to Paris each season because the label’s design duo, sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy are “huge fans of the city and huge fans of what fashion means in Paris.” On top of that, the schedule allows for them to have earlier deliveries, they told BoF.
THOM BROWNE: In July, Thom Browne, said he would move his menswear show to Paris. Browne, who is based in New York, also shows his menswear collection in Paris. He told BoF in 2014, "I used to show in New York, as I am based there, but the move to Paris for my men's collection was prompted both from a creative point of view as well as a business decision.” He further noted: "It allows me to show the collection earlier to get a head start on production and I also feel that Paris fashion week embraces true conceptual design."