Cathy Horyn Speaks Slimane

It appears that Lady Gaga and Oscar de la Renta are not the only ones who are not exactly on Team Cathy Horyn. Hedi Slimane is not either, judging by the fact that she was not invited to his YSL debut last night. Her review, which was one part her personal history with Slimane and one part a not-so-stunning review of his collection, was published in the New York Times today. Here are our favorite excerpts ...

Many front-row editors, to their disgruntlement, were given second- and third-row seats, and some, including an editor from Le Monde, had to stand. While a lot of journalists don’t really care where they sit, the lack of professional courtesy smacked of ignorance or arrogance.

As time went on, he also felt (as best as I can tell) that I gave preference to Mr. Simons in my coverage of the men’s shows.

I was not invited ... When I raised the invitation matter with his boss, Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief executive of PPR, which owns Saint Laurent, Mr. Pinault expressed dismay.

My opinion, then, of his first collection is based on digital images, which anyone can see. Mr. Slimane picked up some big, early themes of the house ... And that was the problem: the collection was a nice but frozen vision of a bohemian chick at the Chateau Marmont. Or in St. Tropez. Mr. Slimane’s clothes lacked a new fashion spirit. Indeed, it was as though he refused to interpret the YSL style, beyond updating proportions.

Considering that Mr. Slimane was an avatar of youthful style, I expected more from this debut. I had the impression from the clothes of someone disconnected from fashion of the past several years. If so, that might be an interesting perspective. But there wasn’t something new to learn here. Also, the self-important air of Saint Laurent’s media relations — the calls informing reporters that Mr. Slimane wouldn’t be taking questions backstage — is out of touch. Meanwhile, its competitors— Balenciaga, Dior, Givenchy, Celine, Lanvin — are having a terrific season.