Gosha Rubchinskiy repeated has been given situated in the ranks of the future of Russian fashion (along with a handful of other independent designers) and with good reason. Since graduating from the Moscow College of Technology and Design graduate and launching his label, ГОША РУБЧИНСКИЙ, Rubchinskiy has taken on the role of filmmaker, photographer and creative director. Despite his numerous hats, his underlying passion for both Russia’s rebellious youth and skateboard culture is undeniably striking and influential.
By capitalizing on his own take on the street style aesthetic, Rubchinskiy, 30, has crafted a niche for himself through his urban style and his use of alluringly simple silhouettes. Although the designer hails from across the globe, his talent isn’t being overlooked in the US; his collaborations have ranged from Supreme and Comme des Garçons to Vans and Camper, and his pieces are stocked at Dover Street Market, Opening Ceremony, Union LA, and on e-commerce sites (think: Oki-Ni, FarFetch, etc.).
There’s something to be said of the designer's sartorial leanings, as well. It comes as little surprise that Rei Kawakubo, the mastermind behind both Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market, for instance, was taken by Rubchinskiy's individual edge and larger aesthetic. Clean lines, basics that feature an interesting graphic or print, and streetwear that features an early 90’s influence all define the brand. After all, Gosha Rubchinskiy is a man inspired by those who don’t follow the status quo; as such, it’s no leap in assuming that his clothing would follow the same tendency.
Whether Rubchinskiy is producing his zine, Crimea/Kids (a deeply personal tribute to fashion, youth and breathtakingly cinematic landscapes) or making his Paris runway debut, the latter of which took place this past June, you can bet Russia’s newest fashion authority is doing it on his own terms. A simple blazer in mustard yellow, sweatpants and shirts with “Gosha Rubchinskiy” written in Russian along the sleeves and pant legs, a patchwork coat of muted colors; Rubchinskiy is redefining the terms “Ready-to-wear.” Also noteworthy: the reviews (positive) and the casting: only half of the models were professional, the other half were "nodels," hand-selected by Rubchinskiy himself, many from Instagram.
The designer, who initially launched his label in 2008 and relaunched in 2012, has chosen 80’s style coats, a muted color palette and a simple lookbook to define his house, and most recently, his A/W 2014 collection. If there’s something to be said of this designer it is that he is capturing a lifestyle, not terribly unlike Hedi Slimane is doing at Saint Laurent, thereby suggesting that promising figures are to follow. Saint Laurent is, after all, one of the most quickly growing brands in Kering's portfolio.
GABRIELA LORRAINE is a fashion blogger and writer. She is a fashion merchandising and print journalism student at the University of South Carolina. For more from Gabriela, follow her on Twitter.