Brazilian designer Lucas Nascimento is making a name for himself with his unorthodox treatment and use of knitwear. The London-based fashion designer graduated from The London College of Fashion in 2008 and has shown consecutively at Rio fashion week for the last three seasons. This past season held special promise for the designer, as he was been granted the NEWGEN sponsorship by the British Fashion Council for Spring 2015. It’s the designer’s fourth season with the sponsorship by BFC, and Topshop, and it hardly comes as a surprise given Nascimento’s penchant for crafting knits into something more intricate, structured and altogether unexpected; thereby, setting himself apart from his peers.
Nascimento’s vision of knitwear is quite special, considering the designer’s new-age take on classic knits and the structures and shapes into which he chooses to craft them. Through careful research and precision, which is pretty obvious in each and every look, Nascimento manages to incorporate knits into tailored jackets, dresses and the like, all while maintaining his minimalistic take on “sweater dressing.” Designs range from softly draped tops in the sheerest fabric to structured frocks in a semi-matte finish that look more like silicone than fabric.
For his Spring 2015 collection, Nascimento turned towards the idea of duality for inspiration, in this case, often producing two looks in one. Loose hanging tops and more structurally-fitted sweaters covered only half of the torso, leaving bandeau style bras and sheer underlays to complete the look. Precision was key in this collection, and defined tailoring allowed Nascimento to find unity in two halves of different wholes. Skirts were half-maxi, half-midi or mini, unified by a texture or color, and jewel tones helped to keep this collection looking regal. Sheath dresses with thigh high slits, and high-waisted trousers felt modern when paired with the sheerest tops and littlest bandeaus, all in bold shades.
Lucas Nascimento’s latest collection makes major statements in knits that don’t feel like knits. There is something to be said about an unparalleled level of innovation like Nascimento’s, who is creating a niche in knitwear that really is revolutionary. With a mind and taste that are both refined and original, it seems there is only upward movement for this Brazilian designer.
GABRIELA LORRAINE is a fashion blogger and writer. She is a fashion merchandising and print journalism student at the University of South Carolina. For more from Gabriela, follow her on Twitter.