Fringed capes, pleated skirts and bolero hats peppered the runway at the Dior Cruise 2018 collection in May, as the luxury Parisian label spun its own twist on music festival fashion. "Dior Sauvage" drew inspiration from the scenic landscapes of Los Angeles and the show took place outdoors against the backdrop of the Santa Monica mountains at sunset.
"Hollywood, it's about celebrity, red carpet, but I think there is also another side of Los Angeles," creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri told Reuters before the show. "The natural element, open space ... in some ways, Dior says that California is a new paradise," she said.
Models walked between tents, wearing pleated skirts with horses painted or birds embroidered, wide-legged printed trousers, capes with fringe details and belted furs, accompanied by studded bolero hats and laced boots.
Christian Dior is the latest luxury label to head to Los Angeles, following Yves Saint Laurent, Burberry and Tom Ford, which showcased collections in the past two years. "It's good business, it's good inspiration," Sidney Toledano, president and chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture, said of Los Angeles. "You have a lot of people from Europe, from France, from Italy and people coming from Asia, so it's becoming a cultural hub ... there is a fantastic energy," he added.
Pre-Season Pros and Cons
As we have told you in the past, the coverage of these special, pre-season shows is often extremely questionable due to the resulting deficiencies in journalistic integrity and rampant Federal Trade Commission ("FTC") violations in connection with such coverage by an array of the industry’s most prominent publications.
Pre-season collections tend to be presented in far-flung locations, and thus, amount to mini-vacations, complete with accommodations, activities, and gifts, for attendees. Far from merely taking the form of runway shows, these pre-season events, in particular, are often lavish weekend-long affairs, something editors are not necessarily shy to document (in articles and especially on their public personal Instagram accounts).
While these “press trips” are often documented rather meticulously on Instagram by attendees, they are largely kept under wraps in another way: Their true nature – the fact that brands are often foot the bill for an array of attendees – is almost never disclosed, and thus, such coverage serves to defraud consumers, particularly when coming from individuals and publications charged with providing objective or at least non-deceptive content.
Such press trips - and the treatment of them either by way of runway show reviews or arguably, the use of garments shown as part of the collection is later editorials - when not documented in accordance with the FTC’s guidelines (certainly the result of a lack of guidance from the top), leave editors, critics, celebrities, and bloggers – including those in attendance at the destination Resort 2017 shows and those of seasons prior – running afoul of the FTC Act. This is because such coverage stands to significantly mislead consumers.
There is more to this truly rampant industry-wide practice than just free trips or free bags. Without disclosures indicating that publications are being flown, housed, and wined and dined in connection with their coverage of such collections, consumers are being misled. They are arguably deliberately being deprived of necessary information/context to allow them to weigh the information they are receiving adequately, and this is exactly what the FTC – a consumerprotection agency – aims to prevent.