Amidst the influx of Pre-Fall collections, our friends over at Fashonista caught up with Donna Karan at her Pre-Fall preview and the designer had some interesting thoughts on the increasingly popular and profitable between Spring and Fall collection.
Karan told the fashion site: “I hate them. No, it's not that I hate pre-fall. I don't like the idea of doing two fall seasons. I don't understand. What I don't like is having the consumer see—like if I showed this down the runway next week, it'd be fantastic. And now I have to do another fall collection because everyone has seen it. It goes to the press, it goes out on the daily communication now, which is I think not the best thing we could do to our customer. I'd rather them be seeing spring right now than in September, when I want to get them excited about fall. I think there's something—and I've said this my whole life so this is nothing new—because of the speed of communication today that is affecting the fashion business."
Karan's ideal timeline? "I think right before it goes into the stores, the customers should see it and so should the immediate press. But to see it this far in advance, it's like it's confusing the customer for the next season. Particularly if you're dropping a hem or you're changing a silhouette and then you didn't do it for the next season—I think it doesn't allow for that 'oh my god, brand-newness' because you can't shock the customer."
Raf Simons spoke to the speed of fashion recently, as well, telling German fashion mag, 032c: "The whole thing is very global and exposed. It’s over-the-top exposed and communicated […] Fashion, however, does not know patience. It’s an abnormal life. When I see friends who have nothing to do with fashion and discuss a collection that we presented six months ago, for them that collection has not really happened, because it’s still not in the stores. It’s very weird."
And this is not so dissimilar to Phoebe Philo's take. You may recall that for Resort 2015, Celine didn't release its lookbook until last month, a full five months after everyone else. The publication of the lookbook coincided with the stocking of the Resort collection in stores. And before that, for Resort 2014, the Paris-based design house did the same thing, but took it a step further at its June 2013 preview, asking that no one took pictures or wrote any reviews. Celine has yet to release its Pre-Fall 2015 lookbook. We'll see if its in line with the timing of its fashion counterparts or not …