With everyone wondering if Haider Ackermann would take his scissors to the classic lines of Berluti in his debut show for the Paris-based brand, much brainpower is being expended on trying to make the classic two-piece suit relevant. Purists need not panic, not as far as Ackermann is concerned in any case. The Colombian-born designer's first Berluti collection was exquisite, a symphony in velvet, suede and cord, classic yet right on the button of cool.
His suits of often subtly contrasting browns and blacks were paired with coats in rich reds, blues and gold and woolly halo collars. Trousers – as has often happened this week – stopped at the ankle over Berluti's trademark Chelsea boots.
The celebrity-studded audience included the British actress Tilda Swinton, a longtime fan of the 45-year-old creator, whose show earlier in the week for his own label was adored by critics.