France’s oldest fashion house, Lanvin, sought – and according to at least one ... No, two ... major critics, failed – to put an end to what Reuters called “a period of upheaval” on Wednesday when its newest creator director, Olivier Lapidus, made his debut. Appointed in July after the markedly short tenure of Bouchra Jarrar, Lapidus – Lanvin’s third creative head in three years after Alber Elbaz was abruptly fired in 2015 – unveiled a collection of a straightforward garments and a lot of branding, a strange tactic for the largely logo-less brand.
As noted by Reuters, “Lapidus’ debut is one of several closely watched maiden collections at Paris Fashion Week, at a time when brands are jostling to make a mark and ride an upturn in the luxury goods industry.” Among those making their initial outings: Clare Waight Keller, who succeeds Givenchy’s longtime creative director Riccardo Tisci at the LVMH-owned house. Keller, who comes from Richemont-owned Chloe, will present her first collection on October 1.
In other newbie news: France’s Guy Laroche presented designs by its new creative director, Richard Rene, on Wednesday. In the space left vacant by Keller at Chloe, Louis Vuitton alumnus Natacha Ramsay-Levi picked up the reigns and showed a very Louis Vuitton-inspired collection. Still yet, Carven’s new designer, Serge Ruffieux, made his debut on Thursday, as well.