Proenza Schouler managed to secure the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York’s Meatpacking District for its fashion show on Wednesday night, marking the first show to be held in the newly reopened space. While the space itself is massively impressive, it is, after all, a glass-enclosed space overlooking the Hudson River that serves as the home thousands of works of modern art, the Proenza Schouler design duo did not allow the space to outshine them. This is rare. As of late, we have seen many a designer present an over-the-top runway show only to trot out less than desirable garments and accessories. That is not the style of this design duo, which consists of Parsons grads, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough. They are easily one of the most noteworthy young design duos in the industry and most heavily watched in New York for some time now.
The locale for the designers’ Fall/Winter 2016 collection made sense, according to the AP, as the duo “cites artist Frank Stella as one of the influences on their new collection, and the Whitney's exhibit of Stella's work just closed. In fact, the fashion show was held in the same beautiful room overlooking the Hudson River.”
Moreover, each garment from the Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2016 collection, a number of which were shoppable immediately after Wednesday evening’s show, “arguably resembles a Stella artwork — with colorful layers constructed together in ingenious ways.” The show itself “was a meditation on control and release. The control was at the top of the body — with laces and knots and tight-fitting tops.”
“It all falls into kind of a slouchier silhouette," McCollough said after the show. "The trousers are big, and the shoes are a bit lower, for a woman to be able to walk fast, with freedom and confidence."
Beyond the concept of control and release, the idea of process and materials was key, and it harked back to American art of the '60s and '70s. "It's about the process, not the outcome," McCollough said. Especially appealing were figure-hugging knit dresses that appeared to display control, with their shape, and release, with their softness, at the same time.