Phoebe Philo showed her Fall/Winter 2015 collection for LVMH-owned house, Céline, in Paris today. See the collection in its entirety below, along with excerpts from the industry’s most respected critics’ reviews of the collection …
Dazed: “There’s a lot of sensuality and sexuality,” said Philo. “I feel like I’m always on guard for the Céline woman to be sexualised. Is that womanly? Is that girly?” More questions from the designer, as she seemed to be toying with the idea of injecting sexiness without falling too far into a realm that she has adamantly shied away from since the beginning of her minimal oeuvre at the house. By leaving things “undone” – strings and ties left untied, loose bras layered over tops, vests with holes cut into them, floral and feather embroideries with sections missing – Philo communicated her take on the discomforting nature of being sexy. What emerged was a woman at ease with this mix.
Vogue: The overarching point of the collection was its variety and inclusiveness. At the super-luxurious end, the buttery leather, drawstring-waist trench coats—especially the one with a deep-pile fur collar—underlined Céline’s heritage as a refined French label. There were wide-leg pants for all those who regard Céline as the ultimate trustworthy source of all well-fitted trousers. There were fluted, ribbed-knit dresses. And of course, an inventory of desirable bags: giant leather buckets, plus the curious proposal of something which resembled a strap-on saddlebag or holster.
Style.com: This wasn't the first collection this season that has exalted the artisanal work of the hand, but here it had a particularly striking naïveté: boiled-wool pieces with embroidery smashed up, broken down, as well as trims of fur and feather. Those animal prints were hand-drawings based on the illustrations in children's books. Then there was the fox fur. "Loaded, vulgar, intense," said Philo. "I'm trying to propose that we women go for it."