A mob scene gathered outside of the seedy Paris gay club Le Dépot this past week, awaiting entry to Vetements’ Fall/Winter 2015 show. Inside, major critics and major stars were on hand to witness the Vetements creative director Demna Gvasalia’s third collection (pictured in its entirety after the break below). Gvasalia, a Georgian-born, Paris-based designer, learned his skills at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and honed his craft at Maison Martin Margiela and Louis Vuitton. After becoming frustrated with the business model of designers keeping established fashion houses afloat, Gvasalia stepped out on his own, making his own rules on the way.
Gvasalia named the label Vetements, the French word for “clothes,” because he doesn’t want customers to pay attention to the name. Rather, he wants them to focus on the clothes themselves: classic pieces given new life, like wool military coats with exaggerated silhouettes, shrunken hoodies and T-shirts, and oversize, asymmetrical suit jackets. “It was a lot about the attitudes of wearing the clothes,” Gvasalia, who was recently named a semifinalist for the second annual LVMH Prize, explained after the show. Although the designer credits Margiela’s playful proportions as an influence on his line, the looks are all his own. “It’s a dialogue with today, not really what Margiela did 10 years ago,” he said. “It’s about now, it’s about our generation, and that’s what the big difference is for us.”