Hedi Slimane delivered another ode-to-skinny-people-and-rock-music for his second menswear show at SLP. This time, (thankfully) gone was the total homage to grunge and Cobain; instead, we were treated to a mix of rockabilly and old school punk. While this collection was certainly more accessible than his last menswear show, Hedi’s SLP takeover still presents a number of criticisms and questions for his longtime fans. For instance, in all the iterations of youthful rebellion and punk rock that designers have experimented with over the years, when has the male cameltoe ever been a hallmark of the movement? Likewise, are the young, skinny, and fabulously wealthy youngsters that Hedi is targeting ready for bolo ties? And what about the deadly bolo tie/male cameltoe combination seen in the first picture below (after the break)? Are we there as a society yet? I pray that we are not.
On a more serious note, whereas Hedi’s collections for Dior Homme were just as youth and rock-infused as any of his more recent collections, when it came down to it, they were largely comprised of not just wearable, but totally lust-worthy individual items of clothing. The shows were just as dramatic (if not more, as it hadn’t yet been done before) but, ultimately: the amazing clothing was what brought people into the stores, and the almost universal acclaim surrounded Slimane. This time around, there’s a lot less of that. The big picture is still there, but if you look at the fit of the jeans paired with the comically pointy and multi-strapped shoes – nothing screams BUY ME FOR EXORBITANT AMOUNTS OF MONEY.
Of course, Hedi’s last show for Dior Homme was in 2007 and it’s probably time to move on from those glory days – but then, if we were judging the current SLP output on first impression, and not with our gilded memories of his first go-round in the back of our head – it’s unlikely he would have been brought back at all after last season, and I can’t imagine anyone else getting such a forgiving response after the (absolutely not edgy at all) Marilyn Manson and Courtney Love ads. So … its a double edged sword I guess?