It is not over. Hedi Slimane's debut runway show for Yves Saint Laurent may have concluded hours ago, but now the reviews are starting to trickle in. Here is what some of the top critics, Slimane's fellow designers, and YSL co-founder, Pierre Bergé, are saying ...
“Sublime,” Pierre Bergé said immediately after the show. “[Slimane] respected the codes of Saint Laurent.”
New York Times' Eric Wilson: "The initial reaction, among those who attended the show, was that he had gone in a direction that is very Saint Laurent. Now that might sound obvious, but it is meaningful."
(Cathy Horyn's Twitter is noticeably silent. Rumor has it she wasn't invited?)
Vogue UK: Presented a largely positive review with this one caveat ... “While there were perhaps question marks over the need for the series of Stevie Nicks-style gowns at the end, he was obviously just trying to compound his point. Which he did. The thing that we need to do is give him more than one season to see where he takes Saint Laurent, as he so renamed it in June. This was a strong start. But we feel like we need to know more.”
WWD: "Did Slimane offer a new, stunning prescription for edgy chic funneled through the Saint Laurent lexicon? Not even close. Rather, he filtered sweet homage through an L.A., rock-loving lens ... countless variations of the same ... the clothes were good: slick, sexy pants, jackets and shirts, which on their own won’t scream retro and, to a lesser degree, gowns that women will want to wear.
Franca Sozzani, the editor of Italian Vogue: “[It was] very Saint Laurent, and if you loved Saint Laurent, you cannot not love it.”
Peter Dundas, artistic director at Emilio Pucci: “I think there were some lovely pieces, and if I were a girl, I would want to look like that. It reminded me of an opium den.”
Diane von Furstenberg, designer: “I completely identify with it, and I think he did a great job ... I think it was great."
Lanvin's Alber Elbaz, who designed for YSL, before he was replaced by Mr. Ford, said: “It was very Hedi,” he said, “and it was very Saint Laurent.”
Robin Givhan of the Daily Beast: "Of course, every collection, particularly every designer collection, isn’t meant for every woman. So there is nothing particularly wrong with a designer cutting for a certain physique. But Slimane’s silhouette looks to be so unforgiving that it could be a financial liability to a brand trying to build its clientele ... Still, Slimane is at his best as a tailor and when he’s conjuring up all manner of ruffled capelets and glittering pullovers to wear with his trousers. The weakness in this debut collection was with the dresses."