It seems that Iceberg is the latest brand to unite its men’s and womenwear collections, as James Long, who has served as the brand’s men’s collection since late 2015, has been named creative director of the Italian brand’s women’s collection. Long succeeds Arthur Arbesser, who joined the knitwear-focused brand in June 2015, in what was a buzzy announcement, as Arbesser is one of the most prominent rising stars in the Milan fashion scene. Following his departure – one of, if not the, speediest turnovers we have seen in recent years, in which 3 years (as opposed to 10 years) has become the new tenure term, Arbesser will reportedly focus on his eponymous label.
Arbesser, a Central Saint Martins grad, has been a must-watch since he launched his label in Milan in February 2013 and went on to become a finalist in the second annual LVMH Prize two years later. Of his February 2016 womenswear collection, WWD’s Jessica Iredale aptly noted: “Arthur Arbesser’s Viennese-influenced, cerebral point of view has distinguished him among Milan’s new youth influx. Few if any of his peers are doing the kind of Germanic androgyny Arbesser’s been exploring, yielding interesting if uneven collections in the past.”
The news comes after Calvin Klein announced that it would unite its formerly disjunct men’s and women’s collections under the purview of newly appointed creative director, Raf Simons, who will make his debut this September.