Daily Links

1. Inside the millennial church of Glossier—the beauty brand that wants to get your best friend: Glossier has become the ur-brand for a millennial subculture that loves to hate itself even as it loves to support that which it (supposedly) hates … Glossier wants, above all, to be your friend. It’s a kinder, gentler capitalism—but a capitalism all the same. – Read More on Prospect Mag 

2. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele: “I started in this business 25 years ago and I’m lucky because I’m still working by my stomach,’’ Mr. Michele said, meaning he is driven less by marketing than by instinct. “At a certain point in the business, it was ‘Sell the bag, sell the bag, sell the bag’.’’ That, he said, was the point at which he found himself bored and depressed and looking for the exit. Then, as it happened, he sold the bag. – Read More on the New York Times 

3. ‘LVMH of China’ faces disruption to its cotton supplies: Shandong Ruyi is facing serious disruption to its access to cotton supplies after the company was placed on an industry blacklist that will halt much of its trading in the commodity with major global groups. – Read More on the FT 

4. The unique challenges of selling fashion in China: “Telling that story repeatedly and constantly is really, really important for brands. Working mostly also with luxury brands, they kind of have the sense that, ‘Of course everybody knows who I am.’” But often they just know the name, and not necessarily the story behind the brand. – Read More on Quartz 

5. What’s the carbon footprint of your closet? ThredUp will tell you: ThredUp, an enormous online consignment store, has created a tool with Green Story (which calculates the carbon impact of different consumption behaviors) that estimates your own personal impact based on how you shop and take care of clothes. – Read More on Fast Co. 

1. Millennials want clean conscience when buying luxury goods: “If British luxury is to achieve its target of £65 billion in sales over the next five years, sustainability has to be at the heart of every brand’s strategy.” – Read More on the Evening Standard 

2. Just about every store at the mall is struggling. Then there’s Bath & Body Works: “There are so many things going against this company: It’s a mall merchant — that, alone, should have spelled doom. And it’s selling commodities that are broadly available elsewhere, often for cheaper. But somehow Bath & Body Works has figured out how to appeal to the masses.” – Read More on the Washington Post 

3. RETRO READ: Mall Staple Bath & Body Works Should be Dead, So Why is it Exhibiting “Exceptional” Growth? Staple mall brands have been getting killed off with some regularity in recent years, as consumers opt for e-commerce purchases and foot-traffic has plummeted as a result, but Bath & Body Works is far from dead. – Read More on TFL 

4. The origins, and explosive growth of athleisure: As society grew to accept sportswear separates as the norm, a new term was needed to differentiate this new generation of multipurpose fashion from its predecessor. That’s where athleisure comes in. – Read More on Fashionista 

5. Collaborations are providing fashion brands a gateway to the Chinese market: A June report from Gartner L2 showed that the percentage of fashion brands promoting brand collaborations on the Chinese social network Weibo had jumped up from 62% in the first quarter of 2018 to 80% by the midpoint of 2019. – Read More on Glossy

1. Gwyneth Paltrow: Selling Goop products on Amazon wouldn’t “be good for us.” The actress says her wellness company has been “wrestling with the idea of if we should have a wholesale partner or if we should keep it all direct to consumer.” – Read More on CNBC

2. Why Fashion Brands Today Have Such Strange Names: From 99%is to Suicoke, fashion brands choose increasingly bizarre names as companies strive to stand out on social media and in Google search results. – Read More on WSJ

3. RETRO READ: A Slew of New Brand Names Raises the Question … Is Fashion Running Out of Trademarks? The supply of available trademarks is “severely depleted, particularly in certain sectors of the economy,” such as fashion and retail more generally. So, the adoption of unused names – no matter how unconventional –  provides new brands with the chance to secure trademark rights, as well as the valuable social media handles and domain names of their choice, which might otherwise be difficult since so many of those have already claimed been. – Read More on TFL

4. Opening Ceremony Sold to New Guards Group: Farfetch-owned New Guards Group will assume production of Opening Ceremony’s in-house line. According to a more recently-issued statement, New York-headquartered Opening Ceremony revealed that it will close all of all retail stores “sometime in 2020.” – Read More on Vogue

5. LVMH’s “hacks” for luxury innovation: As the consumer landscape continues to shift, the group taps staff for cutting edge ideas, including ways to enhance the travel experience, to achieve zero waste packaging in wines and spirits, and to move into eco-design. – Read More on the FT

1. The rise of heels for men: Sales of high heels for men have been on the upturn since 2017 and searches for “men’s heels” have grown by 30%, according to Lyst.co.uk. – Read More on the Guardian

2. Purging Your Stuff Is the New Conspicuous Consumption: Americans are “moving away from pride of ownership, which has been the bedrock of our capitalist society.” – Read More on Bloomberg 

3. RETRO READ: When Customers Want to See the Human Behind the Product. Companies recognize the value of authenticity — whether it is Harley Davidson trademarking the distinct sound of its V-Twin engine, Krispy Kreme donuts boasting that they have kept their same recipe since 1937, or luxury brands like Rolex simply providing a certificate of authenticity. It turns out that one simple way to create authenticity, however, is to emphasize human involvement in the product. – Read More on HBR 

4. ‘They drove themselves into a brick wall’: While analysts and industry observers say that Forever 21’s e-commerce operations could use a refresh, they maintain that the company’s biggest problems remain the size of its stores, its cluttered layout, and a failure to respond to fashion trends as quickly as competitors. – Read More on Modern Retail 

5. Model juror? Among the 120 or so potential jurors who reported for duty on Monday morning in New York for determination of who will be part of a 12 member jury for Harvey Weinstein’s criminal trial was Gigi Hadid, who told the judge she could be objective — despite having met the defendant and Salma Hayek, one of his alleged victims. – Read More on THR 

6. The Sorry State Of High Street Shopping For Plus-Size Women: Fifty-five percent of plus-size women avoid in-store shopping not due to a lack of interest but because they know their size isn’t available. – Read More on R29

1. Target hatches a billion dollar plan to challenge Nike and Under Armour: Later this month Target will debut a new athleticwear brand dubbed All in Motion. It’s a private label collection that spans T-shirts, tank tops, polo shirts, pants, leggings, sports bras, swimwear, yoga mats and hand weights, and Target believes it could be a billion dollar sales brand in the first year of availability. – Read More on Yahoo 

2. Universal Standard co-founder Alexandra Waldman on making fashion for the 70%: “Let’s face it, this is how we change the perception of beauty: by seeing it over and over. If you’re just seeing one particular model — one face or one archetype — then you’re forced to judge yourself by how far you are from that archetype.” – Read More on Glossy 

3. A New Market for On-Demand Luxury Fashion Delivers: Rent the Runway wasn’t able to provide data on how much of its current business is delivered to hotels or customers on the go, travelers have anecdotally used their service for rentals when traveling either for work, weddings, or vacations. – Read More on Skift 

4. Victoria’s Secret’s Image Is Hurting L Brands: L Brands recognizes the need to reposition Victoria’s Secret, the concern is this: Can a brand with such a strong image truly revamp to please a customer who is looking for just the opposite? Can shoppers imagine a Victoria’s Secret without the vision of models with angel wings strutting down the runway popping into their minds? – Read More on Motley Fool

5. Vogue Italia’s latest issue is greenwashing at its finest: ‘Vogue Italia’ replaced photo spreads with drawings to reveal the environmental cost of making a fashion magazine. The stunt doesn’t offer any real solutions. – Read More on Fast Co.