The Fashion Law Exclusive – After showing his Fall/Winter 2015 collection during Jakarta Fashion Week last week, Priyo Oktaviano has the Internet buzzing, but it is not necessarily the reviews a design wants. Some are suggesting that the Indonesia-born designer’s collection looks familiar. In particular, comparisons are being made to New York-based designer Prabal Gurung’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection, which Gurung showed during New York Fashion Week this past February.
Gurung looked to his native Nepal, as well as the Mustang tribe, for Fall, gaining praise for his novel use of an array of textiles (think: tapestry-printed cotton satin, tweed and embroidered organza, shaggy fur and feather-trims, and lurex jacquards). The color palette was also eye catching; the bordeaux, crimson and cantaloupe hues, the dark blues paired with deep grays. And the layers and contrasting textures, of course, had show-goers pining for full looks. Particularly striking was the outerwear: the cropped jackets, the long opera coats paired with cable knit sweaters, the over-sized scarves. The cashmere turtlenecks peeked out from under evening gowns, which bore asymmetrically draped skirts. Equally enticing was the daywear with tops that appeared to be wrapped around the body (some complete with sexy cut-outs) and the sarong-like skirts. It all felt very dichotomous: Urban warrior, maybe. Gurung is, after all known for mixing notions of sport and a party-ready feathered skirt, and thanks to the many little touches (embroidery, his recurring reliance on certain textiles, etc.) for which Gurung has become known, it felt very, Prabal.
This is all to say that when Oktaviano’s collection hit the runway, it all felt a bit familiar. There was the shaggy fur trim, the contrasting-textile sweaters, the wrapped bodice tops, the draped sarong-like skirts, the embellishments (Swarovski crystals in Gurung’s case), and in case you have any doubt, there was the finale dress: Both designers showed dark blue turtleneck gowns with asymmetrical skirts, sheer and embellished long sleeves and an array of nearly identical draped detail.
In my opinion, this all feels a bit too similar to be a coincidence and for Oktaviano to claim independent creation (aka, he thought of all these designs independently and did not actually copy Gurung). It is also worth noting the timeline for all of this; Gurung showed his collection in February, and then at Audi Fashion Week in Sinagpore in May. All the while, it has been featured in an array of editorials internationally (think: Harper’s Bazaar, Interview, Elle, Vogue, etc.). Oktaviano showed his last week. But don’t take my word for it; check out a handful of photos from both collection and tell us what you think in the comments section below …