March 4, 2015

LATEST HEADLINES

Out of the Shadow of The Row and Into the Spotlight at Hermès

There is certainly a lot to look forward to this Paris Fashion Week. Alexis Martial and Adrian Caillaudaud will send their first collection for Carven down the runway on Thursday. John Galliano will show his first main collection for Maison Margiela on Friday. Guillaume Henry will make his debut at Nina Ricci on Saturday. And on Monday, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski will unveil her first collection for Hermès. Largely an hidden talent, Vanhee-Cybulski, 36, fills the womenswear director void left by Christophe Lemaire, who left the house to focus on his eponymous label. A week after that announcement came the unveiling of his successor, Ms. Vanhee-Cybulski. While most people have never heard Nadège’s name, she is arguably one of the industry’s best kept secrets as of late. (A calculated move on the part of Hermes, according to industry sources, which suggest that the appointment shows a shift in how brands are hiring now. Perhaps brands have been burnt by the fallout of the scandals attached to superstar designers such as John Galliano – these days, quieter designers such as Vanhee-Cybulski appeal over those who have a reputation that proceeds them).

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Outrageously Skinny Models Are a Complicated Issue

There is controversy underway at Cover magazine. An image from the Danish mag’s latest issue (number 103) was leaked on Reddit last week or so, and the model, 16-year-old Lululeika Ravn Liep, is at the center of an online war in connection with her weight, specifically a thread with nearly 2,000 comments, entitled “Corpse or model?” The magazine’s editor, Malene Malling, took to the magazine’s Facebook page to say: “I have not lived up to my responsibilities as a publisher, woman and mother and I am sincerely very sorry.” The  Danish Tax Minister Benny Englebrecht even took to his Twitter account to voice his disapproval, writing: “I seriously thought that the fashion industry had understood that anorexia is a problem that should be taken seriously.”

One of the most concerning elements of the situation is certainly the blame that a large number of the commenters are placing on Liep. Many accuse the 16-year-old model of “promoting anorexia.” And to this, we ask: Instead of pointing fingers to blame anyone, why don’t we focus our energies on how to prevent scary skinny models from being depicted in fashion in the first place?

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Alexander McQueen is Also Channeling Adidas Stan Smiths

You may recall the little piece we published not too long ago drawing your attention to the potentially infringing elements of Isabel Marant’s Bart sneaker. Well, it appears Marant isn’t the only one channeling Adidas’s classic Stan Smith, a style that is very much “in fashion” right now. Alexander McQueen is, too Its Oversized Sneaker (pictured below on A$AP Rocky and A$AP Nast) has been garbing quite a bit of attention, namely because it arguably resembles Adidas’s classic style. But let’s back track from a minute, and get all the facts straight. As we told you in the Marant/Adidas article, in order to determine if Adidas actually has a merited claim, we need to know what rights Adidas actually holds in connection with the heel tab – the most obvious element that it shares with the McQueen sneakers.

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Today: From Around the Web

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New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman is calling this season in Milan “odd” and “unsatisfying.” – Racked

Who is rising French fashion star, Jacquemus? – Telegraph

Making your mark is SO important in fashion. Here’s why. – The Independent

DSquared2′s New ‘Dsquaw’ Collection Is a New Appropriation Low – Styleite

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PFW: Jacquemus Fall/Winter 2015

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Lemaire: From Hermès to Uniqlo

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Talk about a clash of cultures! Former Hermès creative director Christophe Lemaire, who left the Paris-based design house last year to focus on his eponymous label, is teaming up with fast fashion giant, Uniqlo. ”We have always dreamt to work with Uniqlo,” said Lemaire and his design partner Sarah-Linh Tran in a joint statement today. “Uniqlo designs qualitative and made-for-all garments for everyday life, is also our approach to fashion and the philosophy of Lemaire.” According to British Vogue, the collaboration will incorporate menswear and womenswear and will be available at all Uniqlo stores, as well as online, beginning this fall – something that Tadashi Yanai, chairman of Fast Retailing (Uniqlo’s parent company), is very excited about. ”Lemaire’s approach to design respects individuality and merges perfectly with the Uniqlo lifewear philosophy, aimed at making life better,” he said. “I myself am really looking forward to getting a glimpse of the results of our tie up, and am thrilled that we are able to bring it to our customers around the world.”

In other Uniqlo news, the Japanese brand is slated to launch a special collection of the greatest hits from one of its former collaborations, the one with Jil Sander … again.  The “Best Of +J” collection will hit stores for Spring/Summer on May 9th, on the heels of continued overwhelming customer demand.

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Michael Kors Sued for Failing to Pay Employees

The Fashion Law Exclusive – Michael Kors is in some legal trouble as of late. The New York based design house, which made billions when it went public in December 2011, has been hit with a proposed class action lawsuit. Plaintiff Pamela Thomas-Byass, a former Michael Kors store manager, filed suit late last week in California’s Central District court, claiming that she was denied overtime pay and meal breaks during the two years she worked for Michael Kors in its location within in a Macy’s department store in San Bernadino, California. And that’s not all. She claims the company “intentionally and knowingly” failed to pay other other similarly situated employees for overtime hours and denied them meal breaks, as well, and that the company knew exactly what it was doing. According to Thomas-Byass’s compliant: ”To successfully compete against other apparel companies, Michael Kors substantially reduced its labor costs by placing the labor burden on a smaller number of employees.”

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13 Ways to Be a Winner… According to Anna Wintour

Not very often do we get to hear (or read) career advice from Anna Wintour. So, when Vogue’s longstanding editor-in-chief provides some, we take note. Wintour sat down with the Sunday Times recently to share thirteen tips for success. Here are a few (think: get fired (at least once), get up early, take your weekends seriously, and more) …

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image courtesy of le21eme

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