April 1, 2015

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Retro Read: Raf Simons x Peter Saville

For his Fall/Winter 2003 collection, Raf Simons was granted full access to the archives of Peter Saville, a living legend known for his graphic design work, much of which takes the form of record sleeves. Saville, who was honored with the prestigious London Design Medal last year, started art school in the mid-1970′s and then began working with Factory Records shortly thereafter. A partner in the Manchester-based label, as well as its artistic director, Saville was tasked with the creation of the Factory artists’ record sleeves, although he got his start designing posters for The Haçienda nightclub, which was run by the label. Inspired by Kraftwerk, a German electronic music band formed by Ralf Hütter and Florian Schneider in 1970 and a favorite of Raf Simons, and their Autobahn album sleeve, Saville went on to design the sleeves for Joy Division and New Order, among others. Rarely given any direction from bands regarding the artwork, Saville says, ”I was left to my own devices … I never had to answer to anyone.” This was especially true given the “non-commercially structured” nature of Factory, which “allowed us to make statements that we believed in and wanted to make, without much compromise,” says Saville.

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Grace Hartzel: The Model that Hedi Made

One of the models who walked in nearly every major show during the Fall/Winter 2015 shows is Grace Hartzel. The Indiana-born beauty, who was scouted in 2011, has been walking in shows since 2012.  She hit the runway for Theyskens Theory’s February 2012 show and Raf Simons’ Dior couture debut in July 2012.  Despite the many shows in which she walked between 2012 and 2014, Hartzel remained relatively unknown until March 2014, when she walked in the Saint Laurent show as an exclusive.  Hartzel had walked for Saint Laurent before (think: Fall/Winter 2013 and Spring/Summer 2014), but it wasn’t until Fall/Winter 2014 that creative director Hedi Slimane took to the brand’s Twitter account to share that Hartzel was his most recent muse and Saint Laurent’s exclusive girl for the season.  She opened and closed the house’s show that season.

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Wal-Mart to “Vigorously Fight” Converse Lawsuit

While Ralph Lauren, H&M, Zulily, Aldo and Tory Burch were quick to settle the lawsuits that were filed against them by Converse in October 2014, in which the iconic sneaker brand alleged trade dress infringement of its protected footwear designs, Wal-Mart is not going down without a fight.  In fact, the discount retail behemoth has responded to the lawsuit Converse filed with the U.S. International Trade Commission (“ITC”) by accusing Converse of trying to “extort monetary settlements” from a large group of the brands.  Instead of quietly settling and paying what certainly amounts to a nominal sum for the billionaire company, Wal-Mart has vowed to “vigorously fight” the case.

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Today: From Around the Web

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Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, the creative director and womenswear design director of Marc by Marc Jacobs (pictured above), respectively, have announced that they’re launching their own collection of ready-to-wear, bags, and accessories, aptly named Hillier Bartley. – Style.com

How Maine Bootmaker L.L. Bean Became One of Fashion’s Hottest Companies – Forbes

Fur trade booming after swing from fashion faux pas to catwalk favorite – Guardian

Gambling on Nostalgia: JNCO’s Larger-Than-Life Return – Racked

Russia delays fashion magazines’ (including Cosmopolitan and Esquire) sale to U.S.-Russian venture – Reuters

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Chanel is Showing its Métiers d’Art 2015 Collection in NYC Tonight

Metiers d art fashion show - Chanel

On the heels of its December 2014 Métiers d’Art 2015 show in Salzburg, Chanel is hours away from its New York City reprisal. The Paris-based design house announced in January that in addition to staging shows in Rome and Seoul in 2015, it would restage its Métiers d’Art show at the Park Avenue Armory for New York clients and press, who couldn’t make it to Austria for the first time around. Deliveries of this Métiers d’arts collection, a pre-fall range embellished by the specialty couture ateliers Chanel owns, start in May. Chanel kicked off the festivities with a boat cruise ion the Hudson and dinner last night with models (Cara, Kendall, Jamie Bochert, Anna Ewers, Hudson and Brad Kroenig, Gigi Hadid – all of whom will likely walk in tonight’s show), Michel Gaubert, Patti Smith, Carine Roitfeld, Emily Ratajkowski, the Brants, Kris Jenner, Alexa Chung, adn Katy Perry, among others. See the collection in its entirety right here, and stay tuned because the tour doesn’t stop here: The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, or DDP, in Seoul, Korea, will be the backdrop for Chanel’s cruise (aka resort) collection on May 4th.

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Hermès Continues to Post Growth, Is Bigger than Gucci

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courtesy of Yahoo (edits/additions by TFL)

While most luxury retailers are struggling for growth, French luxury goods maker Hermès posted a 7 percent rise in full-year operating income and announced a dividend hike, as well as a one-time additional payment to investors. Operating profit totaled 1.3 billion euros ($1.42 billion), Hermès said in a statement, while its operating margin slipped to 31.5 percent of sales from 32.4 percent a year earlier, because of hedging effects related to the yen. Hermès said it would pay a dividend of 2.95 euros a share, up from 2.70 euros a year ago, as well as an exceptional dividend of 5 euros a share. Additionally, the Birkin bag maker reported that its full-year sales surged notably in North America, where they were up 14.5 percent, and Asia, where they rose 13 percent, despite a slowdown in China. European sales were up 7 percent.

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Online Fashion Sites Net-a-Poter and Yoox Are Merging

NAP

Luxury shopping sites, Net-a-Poter and Yoox.com are merging according to a statement from Net-a-Porter’s parent company, Richemont.  The agreement is conditional upon the approval of YOOX shareholders at a meeting which it is expected to be held in June 2015. Upon completion of the transaction, the combined entity will be renamed YOOX Net-A-Porter Group. Natalie Massenet, Net-a-Porter’s founder and executive chairwoman, will stay on in that role and Yoox founder and CEO Federico Marchetti will become chief executive of the combined entity. As part of the deal, Richemont, which also owns Cartier and Alaia, will be receiving 50 percent of the combined company’s shares, although its voting rights are capped at 25 percent, meaning Yoox will remain in power.

In a statement, Richemont chairman Johann Rupert: “Established business models are being increasingly disrupted by the technological giants. It is with this in mind that we believe it is important to increase leadership and size to protect the uniqueness of the luxury industry. The merger of the two leaders will further enhance an independent, neutral platform for a sophisticated clientele looking for luxury brands.” Sounds like the most major fashion site is in the works.

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Today: From Around the Web

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YouTube megastar Michelle Phan launches new lifestyle network – Mashable

Hari Nef, a model and collaborator with buzzy brands like Hood by Air and Eckhaus Latta, Sounds Off on Transgender Issues in Fashion – Style.com

Could Jonathan Anderson be the greatest fashion designer of our times? Probably not. He is, however, one of the most interesting. – Independent

I Was an Unpaid Conde Nast Intern. Should I Take the Settlement? – Racked

Karl Lagerfeld: Fashion’s shape-shifter shows no sign of slowing down – Guardian

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