September 2, 2014

LATEST HEADLINES

TODAY: From Around The Web

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The launch of My Burberry, the British fashion brand’s latest fragrance, is just one step in the company’s broader plan to tap the beauty category. – BOF

Why Coach, Michael Kors, Apple, GM and New Balance are succeeding in China – Forbes

Abercrombie & Fitch Co is finally shedding its traditional logo-focused apparel, clothes that made the brand one of the most sought after among teens in the past two decades. – Reuters

The founder and creative director of Tootsa MacGinty, a unisex fashion brand for children, claims major British retailer Marks & Spencer is apparently selling a copy of one of her designs. – Daily Dot

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TODAY: From Around The Web

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Choupette Lagerfeld’s life is way more fabulous than yours. – Telegraph

Alexander Fury: Mediocre advertising in fashion magazines is a hard sell. – The Independent

It’s no longer uncommon to see tech companies and fashion brands collaborate to make wearable devices into accessories that consumers may actually want to wear. – Washington Post

Luxottica Group SpA said Andrea Guerra stepped down as chief executive officer after a decade at the helm of the world’s largest eyewear maker. – Bloomberg

New York Fashion Week is about to kick off this Thursday (actually, unofficially on Wednesday with the menswear show), and so we ask: How much does an NYFW show cost? A minimum of $100,000. – Dazed

According to Maureen Callahan’s new book, “Champagne Supernovas”, Alexander McQueen admitted he was HIV positive before he killed himself in 2010. – NY Post

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The Week in Review

This week brought quite a bit of red carpet fashion (think: the MTV VMAs, the Emmys, and the Venice Film Festival). While we don’t often follow celebrity outings or their corresponding sartorial choices, red carpet events serve an important role in fashion, and thus, warrants some attention. It provides an important source for designers to achieve press at a relatively low cost. A dress, placed on an actress (who often borrows the dress from the designer’s public relations company), who then attends the Golden Globes achieves international coverage. Even if we consider the fact that oftentimes, these stars are paid to wear a certain design, the cost is far less than the price tag attached to an ad campaign, especially one that is run in an array of magazines internationally. As such, scoring a big name to walk the red carpet in your dress at any one of the major red carpet events (and there are many: the Golden Globes, the Screen Actors Guild Awards, BAFTA Film Awards, the Emmys, the Grammys, the Critics’ Choice Television Awards, Comic Con, the ESPYs, the AmFAR Inspiration Gala, the White House Correspondents’ Association Dinner, the Nickelodeon Kids’ Choice Awards, etc.) is a coup for most brands. While the authenticity and effectiveness of red carpet placement has come into question recently, given the sheer number of events and the role of each celebrity’s team (in June, Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour called the red carpet and its stars “very manufactured and not individual”), it is still a  noteworthy practice given the traditional media and social media attention that is devoted to red carpet events. Here is what else you may have missed this week …

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From the Venice Film Festival Red Carpet

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Hermès Continues to Post Grow

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courtesy of Bloomberg (edited by TFL)

Hermès International SCA, the French maker of $10,000 Birkin bags, reported a 6.3 percent increase in first-half earnings as sales in Asia rose. Operating profit reached 621 million euros ($818 million) from 584 million euros, Paris-based Hermès said today in a statement. Analysts predicted 617 million euros, according to the median of nine estimates compiled by Bloomberg. Earnings as a percentage of sales decreased to 32.6 percent from 33.1 percent.

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Roberto Cavalli Responds to Lawsuit, Denies Wrongdoing

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Roberto Cavalli has responded to the recently filed lawsuit claiming that the designer has copied the work of three San Francisco-based artists for his label’s “Graffiti” collection. According to a statement, the Italian design house has unequivocally denies any wrongdoing, telling NY Magazine’s The Cut: ”In response to the recent lawsuit brought forward by artists Jason ‘Revok’ Williams, Victor ‘Reyes’ Chapa, and Jeffrey ‘Steel’ Rubin, the Roberto Cavalli company would like to state that no official notice of such suit has been received. However, we have heard of some highly inflammatory allegations, which have no basis in fact and are incorrect; we intend to contest and defend against these allegations vigorously. In order to avoid the time and expense of unnecessary litigation, we also intend to communicate with the artists’ attorneys to discuss a mutually agreeable resolution of the issues.” We can confirm that a lawsuit has been filed against Cavalli in the Central District of California court, in which the three artists claim that Cavalli infringed their copyrights and violated the Lanham Act in connection with a work they completed in San Francisco’s Mission district in 2012. More to come …

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TODAY: From Around The Web

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The Economics of NYFW: For designers, the bi-annual show seasons can be the hardest times of the year. We spoke with Bob Bland, the CEO of Manufacture NY, to get an inside look at what it costs and why sometimes it’s worth it just to skip the show. – Racked

Scott Studenberg and John Targon think they have have found a way to sell dress-like apparel to men with their “ambisexual” clothing line Baja East, whose first runway show will take place on September 6th during New York Fashion Week. – Bloomberg

China is already a buying superpower of global luxury fashion, but for it to be a selling one, there is still a long, long way to go. – i-D

The Spring/Summer 2015 collections calendar for NEw York Fashion Week – The Cut

Fast fashion giants, Forever 21, Zara, H&M and Mango, were named in a recent study by the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine, China’s quality watchdog, as the most frequent brands to fail quality and safety tests in recent trials. – Want China Times

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TBT: Raf Simons x Peter Saville

For his Fall/Winter 2003 collection, Raf Simons was granted full access to the archives of Peter Saville, a living legend known for his graphic design work, much of which takes the form of record sleeves. Saville, who was honored with the prestigious London Design Medal last year, started art school in the mid-1970′s and then began working with Factory Records shortly thereafter. A partner in the Manchester-based label, as well as its artistic director, Saville was tasked with the creation of the Factory artists’ record sleeves, although he got his start designing posters for The Haçienda nightclub, which was run by the label. Inspired by Kraftwerk, a German electronic music band formed by Ralf Hütter and Florian Schneider in 1970 and a favorite of Raf Simons, and their Autobahn album sleeve, Saville went on to design the sleeves for Joy Division and New Order, among others. Rarely given any direction from bands regarding the artwork, Saville says, ”I was left to my own devices … I never had to answer to anyone.” This was especially true given the “non-commercially structured” nature of Factory, which “allowed us to make statements that we believed in and wanted to make, without much compromise,” says Saville.

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