October 25, 2014

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Retro Read: Interview Series ft. Adam Katz Sinding

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San Francisco-born, New York-based photographer Adam Katz Sinding is the sole force behind Le 21ème. Since moving to New York just three years ago, the 30-year old’s site has garnered quite a following, with images appearing in just about every major magazine, and he has compiled an impressive list of clients that range from W Magazine and Vogue to Damir Doma and Marc Jacobs. We caught up with the photog, who talked about inauthentic street style, why he hates when his site is labeled as street style blog, Dior Homme under Hedi Slimane, and more …

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Dolce and Gabbana Found NOT Guilty by Italian Court

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After several rounds and nearly four years in the lower courts, designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce have been found innocent in connection with claims of tax evasion! Italy’s high court overturned two lower courts’ rulings (including both judges’ strongly-worded opinions as two why the designers are, in fact, guilty), which held the Italian designers were guilty of hiding hundreds of millions of euros from Italian tax authorities. Specifically, the lower courts held that Dolce and Gabbana, as well as other company execs, used Luxembourg holding company Gado to avoid paying taxes on royalties of about 1 billion euros ($1.38 billion). As of today, those rulings have been overturned, as the designer duo was been found not guilty by the five-member jury, which was headed by president Alfredo Teresi. The duo’s co-defendants, including the company’s general director Cristiana Ruella; finance director Giuseppe Minoni; and accountant Luciano Patelli, were also found not guilty. The designers were initially indicted for alleged tax fraud in 2010, and were convicted by two separate courts. They were subsequently sentenced to jail time (which they did not have to serve due to technicalities in Italian law) and in a separate proceeding in April 2013, based on the same matter, the design duo was fined by Italy’s Tax Commission to the tune of 343.4 million euros (about $440.2 million), plus interest. They have always maintained their innocence.

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Rick Owens’s Fall/Winter 2014 Lookbook

For his Fall/Winter 2014 lookbook, Rick Owens continued with the industry’s latest penchant for older models. In most cases, this takes the form of super models for the 90′s or Leslie Wiener, 60, who graced Vivienne Westwood’s S/S 2014 campaign and a recent lookbook for The Row. But true to form, Owens did exactly follow the trend, he took quite a few steps further, enlisting fetish photographer Rick Castro to photograph four men, ages sixty to ninety-three for his lookbook. Note: they are posing nearly nude in some shots or shrouded in menacing leather and eerily ecclesiastical silhouettes in others. According to Dazed, which ran the photos and an interview with Castro, the photographer’s “powerful images not only challenge our ideas of beauty and obsession with youth but also the way society has stigmatised the idea of being a sexual being past a certain age.”

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Today: From Around the Web

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It has been ten years since H&M launched its first designer collaboration, and the Swedish fast fashion giant is releasing a book dedicated to all of its collabs. – TFS

‘Dior and I’ documentary about Raf Simons first collection for the Paris-based design house (and his first-ever couture collection) has bought for U.S. audience – Variety

Gucci Names Merinda Yeung as New China Chief, Tasked With Turning Around Greater China Operations – WSJ

The Louis Vuitton Foundation By the Numbers: Focused on late modern and contemporary art, the private Frank Gehry-designed museum opens in Paris – WSJ

A Paris court has ruled that French luxury goods conglomerate LVMH can resume work on its €460m conversion of the Paris La Samaritaine department store into a mixed-use complex including a prestige hotel. Work was stopped after a court ruling in May. – TFL

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Simone Rocha has Teamed up with J Brand

Very few collaborations pique our interest here at TFL (sorry, Alexander Wang x H&M), but every once in awhile one comes along that grabs our attention. The latest: Simone Rocha x J Brand. London-based Rocha, who’s name may sound familiar, as she was one of the inaugural LVMH Prize finalists and the winner of last year’s British Fashion Council Emerging Talent Award – Womenswear Award, has teamed up with the American denim brand for a collection of denim (obviously) and a bit more. After receiving her Masters from Central Saint Martins, Rocha opened up shop in London and has since become known for her modern take on romantic womenswear. Don’t be fooled though, “she doesn’t interpret romance as surface prettiness,” as Style.com wrote this past September. In lieu of obvious odes to romance, Rocha prefers to the love that makes you “feel languorous, impatient, and dark, dark, dark.” Her woman is complex; she exudes girlishness, while maintaining an adult tone of matter-of-factness. She is sexy, yet, coy. Some seasons she embraces volume, others more understated silhouettes. One thing is for certain, Rocha has always been ambitious with her textiles and she is nothing if not consistent and clearly full of ideas. So, with that in mind (and the fact that she has never showed denim before), her collaboration is wildly exciting.

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Calvin Klein Hit with Unpaid Internship Lawsuit

Calvin Klein and its parent company, PVH Corp. are the latest to be hit with allegations that they misclassified individuals performing entry level work as interns to avoid paying them. According to Rajwinder Kaur’s lawsuit, which was filed this week in the Supreme Court of the State of New York, County of New York, she interned for Calvin Klein in 2008 and her tasks included data entry, setting up for fashion shows, researching trends and checking merchandise in and out. She claims to have worked 28 to 30 hours each week without receiving either compensation or education or training. In addition to an array of damages, Kaur has asked the court to certify a class action lawsuit, allowing other Calvin Klein and PVH interns to join in the litigation. The complaint asserts that this class consists of more than 100 interns, who have been employed by PVH and Calvin Klein beginning in October 2008.

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Kering Reports Third Quarter Growth, Saint Laurent Still on Top

Kering has released its third quarter results and it is yet another indication that Saint Laurent skeptics (you know them, they wear “Ain’t Laurent Without Yves” tees) are off-base. According to a statement from Paris-based Kering, the luxury conglomerate’s revenue is up 3.3% on a reported basis to €2.6 billion ($3.29 billion). As for the individual brands, there was some impressive growth, it just wasn’t at Gucci. The Florence-based design house, which has been struggling to revamp its brand in the wake of logo-fatigue that hit the market quite hard in recent years, reported that sales fell 1.9 percent on a comparable basis. Positive sales trends were reported in directly operated stores in North America and Japan, thereby, “confirming the success of [its] brand elevation strategy.” Gucci’s sales, which were supported by new launches such as Swing and Bright Diamante handbags, were weak in China, however.

Bottega Veneta, which announced the appointment of a new CEO this week (along with new CEOs at Brioni and Christopher Kane), posted solid growth in the third quarter of 2014 with revenue jumping 11% on a comparable basis (up 10% in its directly operated stores). And then there is Saint Laurent …

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Gucci is Still Losing Cases Against Guess

The Gucci v. Guess battle is still under way in Italy. You may recall that the Italian design house filed suit against Guess in 2009, alleging that the Los Angeles-based brand copied an array of its trademarked logos as “part of a sophisticated and elaborate scheme to target Gucci and to create products that are similar in appearance to the most popular and best-known Gucci products.” We heard the last of that case last year, when Gucci was awarded only a small fraction of the damages it was hoping for (think: a mere $450,000). Around that same time, Gucci filed suit against Guess on the same grounds in a Milan court, and those proceedings have not made for smooth sailing either.

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