Daily Links

1. Meet the French Designer Who is Thriving in the Pandemic: Celebrities adopted wares featuring Marine Serre’s signature crescent moon print, making it the most wanted logo on fashion discovery platform Lyst this year. “Do you want the moon top to be everywhere, or is the aim to keep a balance? I’m trying to find a balance,” Serre says. – Read More on WWD

2. RELATED READ: Marine Serre is Looking to Amass Rights in its Moon Logo & Might Build the Next Big Luxury Brand in the Process. With such rising brand awareness and trademark rights in mind, Marine Serre has been looking to secure trademark registrations across the globe. To date, this has largely seen legal counsel for the brand file – and receive – trademark applications for the crescent moon along with the brand name for use on clothing and accessories in the U.S., Canada, France, Singapore, and Australia, among other jurisdictions. – Read More on TFL

3. Will 2020 mark the end of Black Friday? “You still have a lot of people that are interested in shopping on Black Friday.” It counts as “a social event that individuals like to be part of,” and a holiday traditional for some. – Read More on Quartz

4. With tourist traffic dwindling, Abercrombie & Fitch is accelerating plans to close expensive flagship stores: By closing expensive flagships in London, Paris and Munich that mostly targeted out-of-towners, Abercrombie is shifting its focus to rolling out services at existing stores that are more designed for its local customers, like curbside pickup. The idea is to use these new programs to better serve local customers. – Read More on Modern Retail

5. And speaking of tourists … U.K. Tax-Refund Repeal is a New Headache for Retail Property Owners: Starting in January, foreign visitors will no longer be able to reclaim a sales tax of 20% for items bought in the U.K. for 30 British pounds—equivalent to about $40—or more. Business leaders worry that tourists could abandon London for other European shopping destinations such as Paris and Milan. – Read More on the WSJ

6. ‘We’re seeing a dichotomy in retail recovery’: J.P. Morgan analyst. There will be a three-wave recovery for retail with the first wave a sentiment shift towards fashion-oriented clothes as mobility increases outside the home. The second wave will be clothes tied to returning to the office and the new normal, while the third wave will be more on focused on tourism and travel. – See More on CNBC

1. Former Gucci Creative Director Frida Giannini Opens Up About Today’s Fashion: Reflecting on brands that only succeed in selling T-shirts, sneakers and bags, she says, “When your customers have bought your T-shirts, your sneakers, your duffel bag, what else can they buy?,” adding that she is noticing an excessive use of logos. “Now, there is this overexposure of logos.” – Read More on WWD

2. Trucker Hats: A Questionable 2000s Fashion Trend Returns. This fetishization of all things 2000s has manifested prominently on the popular clothing resale market Depop, which attracts sellers dedicated to selling airbrushed tees, Juicy tracksuits and, yes, Von Dutch hats—trends that enjoyed currency during the newly relevant decade. – Read More on the WSJ

3. RETRO READ: Why Mom Jeans & Fashion-Focused Nostalgia Reigns Supreme in a Time of Global Uncertainty. Every season, the fashion industry reaches into the archives with cyclical predictability, echoing historical trends and stimulating nostalgic feelings through marketing that makes the consumer “miss things that never were,” as Arjun Appadurai put it in “Modernity at Large.” Even while mining the past for inspiration, fashion designers – or at least, good fashion designers – tend to reflect present culture with their work. – Read More on TFL

4. Australian fashion is taking notice of the country’s oldest design traditions – and we’re only just scratching the surface” Being left out of the fashion industry – not only the narrative, but the whole industry – has hampered the expression of what fashion looks like, and impacted Aboriginal and Torres Strait Island people economically. – Read More on the Guardian

5. How Gen Z And Millennial Needs Have Radically Changed Post-COVID-19: Young consumers differ dramatically from prior generations in that they perceive themselves as personal brands. Social media has led to curated lifestyles, within which brands become extensions, expressions, and affirmations of a young person’s identity, which is why sustainable practices, diversity or inclusivity, transparency, and corporate social responsibility are more critical value drivers to them than they are for any generation before. – Read More on Jing

6. German online retailer Mytheresa confidentially files for U.S. IPO: The firm, which sells clothes from 250 of the world’s biggest fashion brands including Prada, Gucci, Burberry and Dolce & Gabbana, may seek a valuation of $1 billion to $1.5 billion, according to a Bloomberg report earlier this month, though the target could change based on the busy holiday season. – Read More on Reuters

1. The Devil Sells Prada: The most recent chunk of that $345 million was secured earlier this year: $100 million in equity and debt financing through V.C. firms, as well as from Andres Santo Domingo’s family—he’s the heir to Colombia’s richest beer dynasty, with a fortune estimated at $3.2 billion. But there are whispers in New York now that the money spigots have dried up and the company is quietly shopping itself, essentially “for parts,” as the V.C. gods like to say. – Read More on Airmail

2. RELATED READ: 44 Models are Suing Moda Operandi, Vogue for Allegedly Using Photos of Them Without Their Permission. The models claim that Moda Operandi used images of them – from images and videos of them walking in runway shows to images of them backstage at runway shows –  “to steer traffic to the modaoperandi.com website for its sole economic gain.” – Read More on TFL

3. How Leonard Lauder Built Estée Lauder into a Cosmetics Behemoth: The company “was in the right place at the right time,” he says. The war boosted demand for cosmetics, as many women suddenly had jobs and money to spend, and the postwar boom enhanced it still more. – Read More on the WSJ

4. Shopify Sees ‘Paradigm Shift’ as Black Friday Approaches: Shopify is counting on consumers to choose independent brands for items that aren’t staples. That “conscious consumerism” is getting a boost from the pandemic, Finkelstein said, “Direct to consumer is not a fad.” A recent Adobe report agrees, noting that almost 40% of shoppers will make a deliberate effort to shop at smaller retailers over the holiday season. – Read More on Bloomberg

5. The built environment and fashion industries are primed to lead the recovery: By focusing on decarbonization and the promotion of labor rights protections, these industries can create economic opportunities that promote a more human and environment-centered way of doing business. – Read More on WE Forum

6. 2020 Was a Big Year for Old Clothes: How Vintage, Secondhand, and Upcycling Took Off: Lyst’s annual Year in Fashion report, a data-heavy distillation of the most popular brands, products, people, and movements of the past 12 months, confirmed a rising interest in used clothes. In September, when many of us were thinking about our fall wardrobes, “vintage fashion” generated more than 35,000 new searches on Lyst, while entries for secondhand-related keywords increased 104%. – Read More on Vogue

1. How Jeff Bezos Built One of the World’s Most Valuable Companies: What Amazon is basically arguing is, the digital economy is all about connection. We have got to connect products (a classic razor and blade strategy: sell a cheap razor in order to make money on the blade) and connect customers (it becomes a flywheel effect, and it becomes a situation where it’s very hard for a new player to complete with Amazon). – Hear More on HBR

2. Something old, something new: Gucci revives classics to regain edgePeople born from 1981 onwards – Millennials and Generation Z buyers – now make up almost 60% of luxury purchases, Bain said, but brands cannot afford to neglect the remaining 40%. That is why on top of tweaking their ranges to include less trend-driven items, most luxury labels are directing their customer service to establish close contact with clients who are not able to go to the stores themselves. – Read More on Reuters

3. COVID is Exposing How the Global Fashion Industry Values Workers: The response to a COVID outbreak at a factory in Sri Lanka owned by a supplier for brands like M&S, Victoria’s Secret, Calvin Klein and GAP has workers saying they’re being treated like cattle. – Read More on Vice

4. RELATED READ: What Does COVID-19 Mean For the People Making Your Clothes?Many garment factory workers, and fabric and yarn producers in these countries were receiving less than a living wage, a figure defined as the minimum needed to provide adequate shelter, food and necessities, before the onset of COVID-19. This has not only made it difficult – if not impossible – for them to plan or save for emergencies, which is particularly problematic given that many are migrant workers without funds to return home. – Read More on TFL

5. Virus Cases Rise, but Hazard Pay for Retail Workers Doesn’t: They were hailed as heroes during the first wave of the pandemic, but wage increases were fleeting, and companies, whose businesses are booming, have been slow to pay out more. – Read More on the New York Times

1. Second Epstein Investigation Begins at Victoria’s Secret: Wachtell, Lipton, Rosen & Katz was investigating “allegations raised in shareholder demand letters and civil complaints concerning, among other things, connections between L Brands and Jeffrey Epstein.” The new investigation is the latest jolt for L Brands and Victoria’s Secret, months after the pandemic foiled a plan to sell the lingerie brand to a private-equity firm. – Read More on the New York Times

2. RELATED READ: Victoria’s Secret’s “Toxic Culture of Sexual Harassment” At Center of New Lawsuit Against Parent Company L Brands. While John Giarratano’s books and records request may – at first glance – have appeared to have little to do with Victoria’s Secret’s ongoing slaughter-by-media, that was precisely the impetus for the action. “After learning about the toxic culture of sexual harassment, discrimination, and retaliation that for years has plagued [L Brands’] flagship brand, Victoria’s Secret,” Giarratano sought to “investigate potential wrongdoing by [L Brands] and its board of directors.” – Read More on TFL

3. Farfetch is Far More Than a Luxury Store: Farfetch allows luxury firms to maintain ownership over their brands and leverage its scale to sell online via a B2B marketplace platform that is comparable to services offered by Amazon and Shopify. With over 2.5m active customers, and having made investments into technology and logistics, the company is well-placed to be the online marketplace platform of choice for luxury brands. – Read More on Seeking Alpha

4. Hermès questioned by animal welfare groups over Australian crocodiles farm: The high-end French fashion brand Hermès wants to build one of Australia’s biggest crocodile farms in the Northern Territory that would hold up to 50,000 saltwater crocodiles to be turned into luxury goods such as handbags and shoes. – Read More on the Guardian

5. Target Grabs Sales From Rivals Amid Pandemic: Big-box stores such as Target and Walmart  have generally fared well during the pandemic, enticing shoppers with a one-stop place to shop. In contrast, many department stores and apparel retailers—already weakened by the shift to online shopping in recent years—have struggled after having to close early in the pandemic. – Read More on the WSJ

6. Europe’s consumer companies brace for new pandemic curbs: Europe’s consumer sector stalwarts such as LVMH, Kering, and H&M, which reported signs of recovery in the most recent quarter, now face another hit to demand as several European countries impose new restrictions to fight a surge in COVID-19 cases. – Read More on S&P Global